Beyond Earth Day: young, sustainable designers

In today’s age of greenwashing, ‘Sustainability’ is one of the favorite buzzwords in fashion. But there are brands tackling some of the industry’s most pressing issues, including textile waste, carbon emissions and overconsumption.

While larger conglomerates and fast fashion giants tend to pursue performative climate change policies, young indie designers are making groundbreaking steps toward actual eco-friendliness (or whatever comes closest to that).

The late Vivienne Westwood, while not new to the conversation, is the godmother of climate consciousness and deserves mention for charting a path that today’s sustainably-minded designers continue to follow. Her early work defined youth culture in punk fashion and her environmental mission is an unspoken blueprint for today’s emerging brands.

Westwood has been campaigning against overconsumption since the 1970s, long before the idea of ​​’sustainability’ was even trendy.

Before most of the industry ever thought about its impact on climate change, Westwood published a twelve-page, zine-like Climate Manifesto in 2007 (the same year she pledged to stop using fur), which delved deep into the evil that capitalist consumption entails. on Mother Earth.

As a pioneer of the cause, Westwood herself often led protests and campaigns against unethical business practices, such as her climate revolution rally at the 2012 Paralympic Games and the 2007 ‘Cool Earth’ campaign, which raised money in support of deforestation and indigenous lands.

Westwood’s efforts earned her the Swarovski Award for Positive Change at the 2018 Fashion Awards. But her legacy doesn’t end there, as her partner, Andreas Kronthaler, continues to use Westwood’s runway shows as a medium for ongoing protest.

Bianca Saunders

Saunders values ​​innovation without sacrificing quality and tackles the challenges facing this unsustainable industry in her own way. Saunders’ work references the three key pillars defined by the Institute of Positive Fashion: “environment, people and community and craftsmanship.”

Her genderless, timeless clothes have won countless accolades – from New Establishment Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards 2023 to Forbes’ 30 under 30 list – but Saunders’ clothes emphasize fit and structure above all, going beyond trends.

For example, denim is an essential part of the brand identity, but Saunders does not use old cotton. She partnered with ISKO – the first global denim manufacturer to achieve EU Ecolabel and Nordic Swan certifications – for responsibly sourced R-TWO denim (‘R’ stands for ‘reduced’ and ‘recycled’ fabrics), which was used to to create the signature twisted denim. seam jeans and bomber jackets.

Bite Studios

Bite, short for ‘By Independent Thinkers for Environmental Progress’, prides itself on prioritizing ethical production first and minimalist women’s clothing second.

The Swedish brand produces its clothing exclusively in Italy and Portugal and creates thoughtful basics that you could say are the eco-friendly alternative to shapewear brands, such as Skims.

As part of its emphasis on manufacturing, Bite’s products are made according to a guideline that ensures ethical production, based on a material library that includes organic silk, cotton and viscose, an environmentally conscious material made from dissolved tree pulp.

Brother Vellies

Brother Vellies’ embrace of founder Aurora James’ South African heritage is reflected in the historically rooted designs, with shapes that reference the graphic language of the nearly extinct Maasai tribe. Each pair of Brother Vellies shoes is part of what James envisions as a ‘forever wardrobe’.

The label deviates from traditional manufacturing practices and greenwashing styles such as vegan leather, which often amounts to non-recyclable plastic with a harmful carbon footprint.

Instead, Brother Vellies’ product catalog features a range of classic yet forward-thinking shoes, including pumps, loafers, sandals, and even the occasional matching sock. Each item tells a story enriched by distinctive materials, not limited to vegetable-tanned leather, floral-dyed feathers and intricately carved wooden soles.

James also founded the 15 Percent Pledge, an initiative that pushes retailers to dedicate 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses, demonstrating that her commitment to craft goes beyond the superficial level.

Collina Strada

Of course, Collina Strada took part in the flowers-as-fashion show of the New York Botanical Garden: few other brands are such an example of the harmonious coexistence of sustainability and self-expression.

With its playful approach to tackling otherwise daunting environmental issues, the Brooklyn-based brand is transparent in its attempt to minimize its carbon footprint rather than completely eliminate it (an impossibility).

Key objectives are represented by charitable partnerships and involvement with the OR Foundation, a self-described “Ghana- and U.S.-based nonprofit organization working at the intersection of environmental justice.”

Collina Strada also emphasizes the importance of fabric choices. It often incorporates thoughtful materials, particularly Rose Sylk, sourced from rose bushes and stems, and reuses deadstock fabrics, excess materials and unwanted supplies into new products.

Cordera

Cordera not only claims pure manufacturing practices, but also has the luxurious designs to back it up. Inspired by their home in Galicia, Spain, Cordera founders Monica and Maria draw inspiration from their surroundings.

Ethical working practices are critical to Cordera, which only develops limited edition garments, often only available for pre-order, with small factories to avoid overstocks and overproduction.

Essential to each collection are quality textiles including recycled and cruelty-free knitting yarn (no baby alpacas were harmed in the making of these garments), with wool jumpers, shirts, dresses and balaclavas to name a few.

Ultimately, the garments speak for themselves. Where other brands tend to rely on bold logos, Cordera prides themselves on their signature Guatemalan embroidery, symbolized by flowers, beaded patterns and ethnic characters.

Duran Lantink

Duran Lantink’s designs are both artistic and ethical. The LVMH Prize-nominated Dutch designer is best known for creating spherical shapes from upcycled fabrics and is a favorite of celebrities like Beyoncé, Doja Cat and Billie Eilish.

Lantink also has ecological conversations on the catwalk: the looks in his Spring/Summer 2024 catwalk are made from 95% recycled materials.

He even once transformed the ultimate symbol of consumerism into clothing for Fall/Winter 2024, when he created an outfit from discarded McDonald’s packaging.

Manu Atelier

It’s rare to find 100% handmade luxury bags – even the biggest luxury labels typically only use hand stitching occasionally – but Manu Atelier appears to be the exception. This attitude is even reflected in the name: “’manu” means “hand” in Latin.

While prioritizing craftsmanship – everything from cutting leather patterns to sewing the bags themselves is done by hand – Manu’s artisans also employ a zero-waste policy and a vertical production process from start to finish that is certified by SEDEX, the Supplier Ethical Data Exchange. .

Despite the unique manufacturing, Manu’s signature styles – including the “Three Striped Baguette” and the Ilda shoulder bag – are based on classic shapes. The leather that makes them up is only responsibly sourced from the non-profit Leather Working Group.

Peterson Stoep

It takes years to infuse your favorite sneakers with memories, but Peterson Stoop’s mission is to give every pair of shoes a pre-existing ‘soul’. There’s no need to throw away old shoes when you can give them new life instead.

Founded as a self-described “global footwear redesigner” (one step above the average shoemaker), Peterson Stoop is based on the “Circle Welt,” a 100-step process that turns your old Off-White™ Air Jordan 1s into a whole new shoe.

The process involves a hands-on deconstruction and reconstruction of the original sneakers, from disassembly to creating a new heel to a new welt that attaches the old shoe to the new sole.

And if you don’t have worn-out sneakers desperate for new life, Peterson Stoop also produces its own shoes, made entirely from recycled post-consumer footwear.