Create classic looks from Heeramandi with this fashion guide

A moment from the trailer of the web series. Photo courtesy/Youtube

Even if period dramas aren’t your thing, it’s hard not to be impressed by the extravagant costumes worn by the stunning cast in director Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s new series Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar. The show’s outfits, designed by Rimple and Harpreet Narula, evoke opulence and a maximalist look that, while reminiscent of the 1920s, evoke longing sighs from contemporary fashion enthusiasts. We reached out to stylist Khushboo Mishra for some practical suggestions to add a touch of diamond sparkle, inspired by the show’s courtesan core, to your festive and traditional looks.

Sonakshi Sinha wears a silk sari with embellishments that represent a somewhat subdued take on this aesthetic

A legacy from the heritage

“Heeramandi’s aesthetic is characterized by opulence, intricate details and vibrant colours. The silhouettes, textiles and artwork reflect a fusion of Mughal, Persian and Indian influences, creating a rich tapestry of cultural motifs and designs. Lush patterns, Luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet, and elaborate craftsmanship create a sense of grandeur,” explains Mishra.

Sinha’s velvet and zardozi embroidery come together for a rich and sophisticated period look

She adds that the signature maximalism of these looks is achieved through brocade and embroidered elements, and by accentuating the outfits with elaborate jewelry. Furthermore, the use of distinctive motifs ranging from floral patterns to geometric designs adds to the historical appeal of the outfits.

Khushboo Mishra

Elegant extravagance

The easiest way to imbibe the Heeramandi aesthetic is with a saree with intricate zari work reminiscent of Mughal art. Mishra suggests pairing it with a statement Kundan necklace. Alternatively, you can pair a plain salwar-kurta or co-ord set with a vibrant dupatta with Persian-inspired patterns. Pair this outfit with a fabric clutch with elaborate motifs and heavy, dainty jewelry with precious or semi-precious stones, she advises.

Richa Chadha wears stone-studded, dainty jewelry

Earthly contrasts

Rich jewel tones (sapphire blue or emerald green) and earthy colors (rust red or deep brown) suit this style best. You can wear them in the form of silk trousers or a full skirt, paired with a similar or contrasting kurta or blouse with embroidered zardozi elements.

Chadha’s look in the series illustrates how kohl-rimmed eyes and a deep lip can complete the Heeramandi look

For a more sober look, choose a monotone base, accentuated by a silk or brocade scarf with traditional motifs such as paisleys or floral motifs. For footwear, choose embellished juttis or sandals with intricate embroidery or metallic accents, which echo the detailed craftsmanship of the shoes worn by the show’s cast. Finally, complete the outfit with vibrant lip colors, subtle eye makeup and an intricate hairstyle – a braided updo, a messy fishtail braid or a gelled vintage hairstyle – to complete your overall look.

Aditi Rao Hydari wears rich jewel tones and ornate motifs, which are quintessential elements of this aesthetic. Photos courtesy/Instagram

The vintage style guide

Fabrics: Silk organza, tissue, velvet, brocade
Colours: rich jewel tones and earth tones with traditional motifs
Jewelry: Elaborate designs with stone accents
Make-up: Striking lip and kohl-rimmed eyes

A full brocade look from Rao Hydari is a tip to Heeramandi’s maximalist overtones