Our rich history: Izzy’s Delicatessen – food, atmosphere, theater – became part of the landscape – NKyTribune

By Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD
Specially for NKyTribune

Part 3 of an occasional series on fast food restaurants

Some companies are so much part of the landscape and culture of our region that they help define us. One of those companies is Izzy’s Delicatessen. Izzy and Rose Kadetz sold much more than just tasty sandwiches. They sold atmosphere and also a bit of theater.

David Kadetz left the anti-Semitism and economic turmoil of Russia to build a new life in the United States. He came to Cincinnati, Ohio, where he worked as a cook at the Sinton-St. Nicholas Hotel on Fourth Street. In 1901, he opened a delicatessen at Sixth and Vine Streets in Cincinnati, possibly the first kosher delicatessen west of the Alleghenies. In October 1909 he married Sarah Gordon, also an emigrant from Russia.

Izzy and Rose Kadetz. (Courtesy of Izzy’s)

On October 18, 1913, Sarah gave birth to Isadore “Izzy” Kadetz in the family’s apartment above the restaurant. In the 1920s, David moved his restaurant to 637 Central Avenue. The deli was small by today’s standards, with 36 customers at tables and another 11 at the counter. It was kosher and became known for its corned beef, sauerkraut, dill pickles, matzo ball soup, cabbage soup, barley soup, kishke and latkes (potato pancakes). They also sold cigars.

In the tradition of centuries-old European shopkeepers, David was a hard worker, but also a bit stubborn and enjoyed a good discussion with his customers. But he was also generous. A friend noted of him that “he never refused food to poor but worthy people.”

In 1929, the country entered the Great Depression. Two years later, in December 1931, David died of a heart attack, leaving his wife and four sons, Isadore ‘Izzy’, Paul, Charles and William. Izzy, then 18 years old, started running the deli with his mother and caring for his three younger brothers.

In October 1936, Izzy Kadetz married Rose Casuto, also of Jewish descent. The ceremony was led by Rabbi Eliezer Silver (1882–1968), who later became an international hero and oversaw the efforts that succeeded in saving thousands of Jews during the Holocaust. Rabbi Silver later presided over Sarah Kadetz’s funeral in November 1941.

Izzy served in the United States Army during World War II and appropriately supervised an officers’ club.

Izzy and Rose Kadetz with some of their employees. (Courtesy of Izzy’s)

When he returned home, he resumed management of the family delicatessen, which became increasingly popular. Many Hollywood stars who performed at the posh Beverly Hills Supper Club stopped by the deli when they were in town, including Joey Bishop, Jack Carter and Buddy Hackett.

Generous and hardworking by nature, Izzy nevertheless continued his father’s tradition of discussing with customers. The restaurant was a stage where Izzy and Rose were the actors, shouting back and forth at each other, and sometimes at each other. The prices were not fixed. In fact there were no prices listed on the menus. Customers simply told Izzy what they ordered. Izzy might charge a beautiful lady less for a sandwich than a well-dressed businessman. And if it looked like a customer was chowing down on too many pickles, he was inclined to charge him a dime more.

Urban renewal forced Izzy Kadetz to move his restaurant to 819 Elm Street in January 1965. At that point, the restaurant was no longer strictly kosher. When Izzy’s health began to deteriorate in the late 1970s, his son David took on more responsibility for the deli. In July 1982, the Kadetz family opened a second location, in the Gwynne Building at Sixth and Main Streets in Cincinnati. John Geisen became the manager of the Main Street location and in 1988 the president of Izzy Kadetz, Inc.

In March 1983, Izzy Kadetz died. The Kadetz and Geisen families continue the tradition of quality food and excellent service that customers have come to expect. Currently, there are five Izzy’s locations in Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky, where you can still enjoy a variety of delicious dishes.

Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is editor of the weekly series “Our Rich History” and professor of history and gender studies at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He is also director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning Enrichment). ORVILLE is now recruiting authors for submissions on all aspects of innovation in the Ohio River Watershed, including: Cincinnati (OH) and Northern Kentucky; Ashland, Lexington, Louisville, Maysville, Owensboro and Paducah (KY); Columbus, Dayton, Marietta, Portsmouth and Steubenville (OH); Evansville, Madison and Indianapolis (IN), Pittsburgh (PA), Charleston, Huntington, Parkersburg and Wheeling (WV), Cairo (IL) and Chattanooga, Knoxville and Nashville (TN). If you would like to get involved with ORVILLE, please contact Paul Tenkotte at [email protected].