Sneaker brand Grounds represents real Japanese streetwear

Such bold concepts perhaps embody a transcendent sense of chic inherent in Japanese fashion. In an interview with Highly snob, Sakabe commented: “I’m curious – why don’t they wear good clothes in Europe? It is the fashion center there, but when you see them on the street: not good clothes!”

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Sakabe’s own journey in fashion is marked with distinction, as he graduated at the top of his class from the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp. In 2007, he launched his eponymous clothing brand, which debuted during Paris Fashion Week.

Sakabe ventured into footwear with Grounds in 2019 and has since moved into the senpai territory for new-generation Japanese fashion designers, where he nurtures a group of emerging talents including Keisuke Yoshida and Akiko Aoki. His Me School, opened in 2019, seeks to cultivate and equip young designers with creative ingenuity and business acumen through its programs.

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In an interview with FEMALESakabe offers insight into the influence of Japanese streetwear and its idiosyncrasies, explaining how his shoe designs seamlessly encapsulate this spirit.

What sets Grounds sneakers apart amid the plethora of sneaker launches?

“Our approach sets us apart. Originating from and deeply inspired by Tokyo, Japan, our brand strives to embody an ‘exaggerated’ essence. Our shoes in particular have bold shapes and a daring aesthetic. Inspired by everyday people – whether we meet them on the street or spotted on platforms like Instagram or TikTok – we try to explore the intricacies of real life and styles. This approach resonates deeply with Japanese culture, where the tendency to exaggerate is evident in various aspects of our lives, from Japanese cartoons to gaming.”

Credit:Club 21

The ground is now filled at Club 21 in Como Orchard.

What do you think sets Japan’s shoe and streetwear scene apart from other cultures or countries?

“In the Japanese streetwear scene, a notable difference from the global norm is the absence of a rigid hierarchy. Unlike elsewhere, where high fashion brands such as Gucci and Prada often distinguish themselves from fast fashion counterparts such as H&M, in Japan there seems to be less distinction between expensive, affordable and even second-hand items.”

What inspired you to introduce sandals for the first time with this collection?

“It’s quite intriguing because the concept of making sandals has been on our radar since the brand’s inception. However, we chose to initially start our journey with sneakers. That is why we have only now started making sandals. It is not a completely new concept for us, but rather a long-awaited opportunity to implement it. Given our brand’s emphasis on platform design, integrating the platform sole into sandals presented a unique challenge. Ensuring the correct balance and movement of the shoes proved more difficult with platforms than with flat soles. While making flat sandals is relatively simple, incorporating platforms requires meticulous attention to walking comfort. That’s why it took us some time to refine our approach before finally introducing the sandals.”

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Which aspect of the new collection excites you most?

“I am especially enthusiastic about the sandals. As Grounds shoes become increasingly popular throughout Asia, especially in regions with warmer climates, such as many countries in Asia where summer weather prevails over colder weather, we saw an ideal opportunity to introduce our sandals as the ultimate summer shoe. This idea has strongly influenced my designs for this season.”

Can you elaborate on the innovative design approach behind your latest model, Oyster, which integrates the outsole directly into the shoe?

“Creating Oyster was one of the most challenging tasks for us because it essentially transforms the sole into the upper of the shoe. Since the beginning of Grounds, I have cherished the concept of merging the outsole with the upper. This integration has been an important aspect for me to investigate. Shoes usually have a clear separation between the sole and the upper, especially sneakers. I wanted to defy this conventional approach and spawned the idea of ​​Oyster.”

Credit:Grounds

The new Oyster model reinvents the signature Grounds platform shoe by merging the chunky bubble outsole with the body of the shoe.

How do you navigate the dynamic shifts within the fashion industry to stay ahead of trends while maintaining Grounds’ distinctive aesthetic and identity?

“In my daily life in Tokyo, I enjoy observing people’s preferences in terms of what they want to buy and what they don’t want to buy. I find that interests are constantly evolving, especially when I walk the streets and see what people are wearing. My inspiration mainly comes from Japanese street style and not from European fashion houses. This serves as the fundamental element that guides my creative process.”

How do you expect the sneaker market to develop in the near future?

“It’s definitely going to get bigger. That is an ongoing topic of discussion within our design team: how the sneaker market is ready for even greater growth in the future.”

As the founder of your own design school, why do you think it is essential to mentor the next generation of designers?

“I believe there is an abundance of untapped talent, but many aspiring designers lack the necessary skills and guidance. Furthermore, many of today’s most influential fashion trends stem from the creativity of the younger generation. That is why I think it is worthwhile to get in touch with them and guide them.”

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What inspired the shift from focus on apparel and ready-to-wear to the launch of Grounds five years ago?

“In the fashion industry, the face has traditionally been the center of attention. I wanted to challenge this norm by shifting the focus to a different part of the body. When someone wears exaggerated footwear, attention is drawn away from the face alone, creating a more balanced visual appeal across the body. While the face remains important, intriguing shoes offer a broader focus on the body as a whole.

Moreover, the concept behind Grounds has always revolved around the connection between people and the earth. I am particularly fascinated by the dynamics of relationships, and creating shoes provided the opportunity to delve into the complicated relationship between people and the ground they walk on.”

Credit:Grounds

Grounds’ mission as a sneaker brand is to create a new and poetic means of communication between Earth and humanity, says founder Mikio Sakabe.

What is your vision for the future?

“While European fashion houses are widely recognized, Asian designers often receive less attention, despite the abundance of talent. My ambition is to develop Grounds into one of the leading fashion houses in Asia, alongside the renowned European fashion houses.”