Exploring the Rich Heritage of Kuching City

The atmosphere of the Lunar New Year is still felt in a temple at the intersection of Wayang and Ewe Hai Street that afternoon. Dozens of red lanterns were lined up in the temple’s yard. Tourists came and went to capture moments in the temple managed by the Kuching Hokkien Association.

That’s the atmosphere at the Hong San Si Temple in the city of Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia, Thursday (22/2/2024) morning. The temple with various beautiful carvings, including dragon carvings, on its walls and pillars is one of the cultural heritage sites in the Chinatown area known as Kuching Old Bazaar.

”One of the special things about this temple is that the theater is right across the street. “The temple holds performances during special festival seasons, such as Chinese New Year, Hungry Ghost Festival and Mooncake Festival,” Kelvin Lu Wei Jian (26), a tour guide, told journalists during a media visit held by Sarawak Tourism Board.

Although it is not known exactly when the Hong San Si Temple was built, the origin in the form of a small temple is believed to have existed since 1848. The inscription inside the temple records that the temple was rebuilt in 1897. The temple underwent major renovations in 1985 and 2002. The existence of this temple may be a marker for the original location where Hokkien migrants settled in Kuching.

As for Kuching Old Bazaar, it is one of the first trading centers in Sarawak. The Chinatown area located in the center of Kuching City was established in the 19th century and developed rapidly during the Brooke Dynasty era.

Walking through Kuching’s Old Bazaar can be a delightful way to begin a day of tourism in the city of Kuching. This area has around 200 traditional shops. Various businesses that have changed hands through generations continue to stand and survive until today.

One of the special features of this temple is its theater located just across the street. The temple holds performances during special festival seasons such as Chinese New Year, the Hungry Ghost Festival, and the Mooncake Festival.

Ewe Hai Road, Bishopsgate Road, Carpenter Road, and Upper China Road are some of the streets that visitors can explore. They can walk on shop sidewalks and road shoulders. Vehicles are not too busy, so there is no need to worry. And drivers will patiently wait for people to cross without honking.

Kelvin explained that Chinese immigrants came to Sarawak in the 19th century. During the early period of their arrival, some of them worked as laborers. “When they had enough money, they opened other businesses,” he said.

After visiting the Hong San Si Temple as the opening, the journalists’ entourage walked along Ewe Hai Street which had dozens of shop houses on either side. These shop houses along the street were built by Sarawak’s first captain, Ong Ewe Hai, in 1886.

At the end of the street, murals depicting past activities in Kuching can be found, such as the production and sale of traditional wooden clogs in shops, as well as trade in local products, including bird’s nest.

Bakiaq was a popular footwear in the past. At least, in Kuching Old Bazaar, there were four to five bakiaq manufacturers, but now there are none. After the 1980s, bakiaq began to be abandoned with the entry of rubber plantations and the introduction of rubber sandals.

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On Bishopgate Street, which intersects Ewe Hai Street and Carpenter Street, there is a century-old tin shop called Ho Nyen Foh. The shop produces various canned products, such as soy milk cans and liter oil, and is run by the third generation, Ho Chin Hin and his wife.

On Thursday morning, Ho Chin Hin, who is no longer young, was manning the soy milk cart. Although it is still in operation, the future of this shop is uncertain as there are no successors to take over.

Shophouse buildings are still dominant when entering Jalan Carpenter. Kelvin said that this street was named carpenter or carpenter referring to its past history as a center for the wood products industry.

However, in the mid-1990s, there were no more woodworkers in that location and some switched to furniture stores. “Wood prices were expensive and people’s habits changed. Imported products are more preferred than homemade ones,” said Kelvin.

Hidden gem

The next journey took us to Tun Haji Openg Street. On this street, colonial buildings still stand proudly and now serve as the Kuching General Post Office. The building, which was established in 1931, appears contrasting with its surrounding buildings.

The view of around 2,000 red post boxes (PO box) is a hidden gem in one part of the building. Even though it is starting to decrease, some people still use it, especially residents whose addresses are far from the city center.

Several residents came to check and retrieve letters or documents from the rented mailbox. “I’ve been renting it for 10 years. The fee is 50 ringgit per year. In the village, sometimes letters don’t arrive,” said Che Ukoon (63), a resident who lives in the outskirts of Kuching city.

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The India Street located on the outskirts of Kuching Old Bazaar area is a historical trace of migrants from South Asian countries. The name of the street, which now serves as the center of textile trading, comes from the large number of Indian shops occupying the street.

In the 1850s, the road was called Jalan Kling (Keling), but in 1928, the Third White Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Vyner Brooke, changed it to Jalan India. In 1992, the road was closed to vehicular traffic and converted into a pedestrian mall.

A large mural entitled “The Early Merces” will welcome visitors before entering Jalan India. The mural features Wee Aik Oh and Sayed Ahmad, two individuals who began textile trading in Sarawak in the 1930s.

If one looks carefully, visitors will find a pathway leading to the oldest Indian mosque in Sarawak located on Gambir Street. Access to the mosque from India Street is called “Narrow Alley” which passes through clothing stores, spice shops, and daily necessities.

This building, founded by the Indian Muslim community in the 19th century, is another hidden gem in Sarawak’s rich history. Unfortunately, the old mosque is no longer used. Its function was replaced by a new building, the Kuching India Mosque, which stands majestically and floats on the edge of the Sarawak River, across Jalan Gambir.

Traditional culinary

During a walking tour in Kuching Old Bazaar and its surrounding area, visitors can take a break while enjoying traditional food and drinks.

The lek tau suan porridge shop can be found on Jalan Upper China, the road before heading to the post office. This skinless green bean porridge with a thick, clear and sweet sauce is very delicious to eat warm with pieces of savory cakwe.

Another option is siew pau at Lorong Kai Joo, which is accessed from Jalan India. This toasted bread filled with minced chicken is crumbly on the outside and soft on the inside. The portion is suitable for filling the stomach before lunch. If you want something spicy, visitors can enjoy curry puff.

They need to drink this butter coffee to soothe their throats.

Still on Kai Joo Lane, visitors can also enjoy a cup of warm opium coffee accompanied by toast at Hiap Yak Tea Shop. There’s no need to worry because the drink is simply black coffee with a piece of butter on top, there is no addictive substance.

Tan Mui Kim (73), the second generation managing the shop, explained that she named this butter coffee “opium coffee” inspired by the stories of past opium smokers who often ordered the coffee.

The past generation of Chinese residents would smoke opium in between their hard labor work as laborers. However, smoking opium caused dry throats. “They needed to drink this butter coffee to relieve their throats,” he said.

Kuching Waterfront

Strolling along the banks of the Sarawak River at Kuching Waterfront may be a choice for unwinding. It is only a few minutes walk from the Kuching Old Bazaar Chinatown area.

At this location, visitors can enjoy the beautiful scenery of the river and the traffic of ships and boats, as well as the surrounding buildings, both modern and classical. It is recommended to visit in the afternoon when the sunlight is not too harsh.

The Sarawak State Legislative Assembly building stands grand and beautiful with a golden-colored roof across the river. The view of the building becomes even more beautiful when the Sarawak flag is raised on a 99-meter-high pole launched in early 2024 in the area called Dataran Ibu Pertiwi.

Furthermore, from afar, classic and beautiful buildings such as the Astana (the residence of the Governor of Sarawak) and Fort Margherita can be seen, surrounded by a lovely park.

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The beauty of the Darul Hana Bridge, which was opened in 2017, also becomes a tourist attraction. Not only is it pleasing to the eye, this magnificent S-shaped bridge is bustling with visitors, both to enjoy the surrounding scenery and to access the locations of the DPR building, the Dataran Ibu Pertiwi, and the Margherita Fort.

The Margherita Fort was built by the Brooke Dynasty in 1879 to protect Kuching from pirate attacks. The fort was named after Margaret Alice, the wife of the Second White Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Anthony Johnson Brooke.

The building is managed by the Brooke family descendants. The fort now functions as a museum containing galleries of relics and information about the Brooke Dynasty. Besides visiting the museum, tourists can also take a stroll in the fortress park and Dataran Ibu Pertiwi to observe the city center of Kuching.

If tired of crossing the bridge, visitors can go back and forth by taking the ferry. The traditional boat with a Dayak ethnic patterned roof is a public transportation for residents and tourists to cross the Sarawak River.

The stunning sunset view at the Sarawak River is an unforgettable moment. One way to enjoy it is by cruising the river with Kuching Royal Cruise. From the top deck of the boat, passengers can witness the sunset moment.

The tour with a multi-level ship lasted about 1.5 hours until 7:00 PM. Dozens of passengers were taken upstream and downstream from the departure point at the Kuching Waterfront dock.

In addition to Astana, the DUNS building, Margherita Fortress, Dataran Ibu Pertiwi, and Darul Hana Bridge, passengers can also observe other iconic or historical buildings, such as Brooke Dockyard, the Pink Mosque, and the Indian Mosque in Kuching.

During the voyage, passengers are treated to traditional Dayak dances and the entertaining music of the sape, as well as a glass of orange syrup and a small slice of layered cake.

The atmosphere at night in Kuching Waterfront is no less attractive. The DUNS building, Darul Hana Bridge, and the Motherland Flag poles will be lit up with lights, creating a charming view. This moment is made even more perfect while enjoying a glass of gula apong ice cream.

That’s a glimpse of a trip to the city of Kuching which successfully combines the heritage of the past and present civilization.